Tucked neatly away on a café-lined square only blocks from the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg, the Pantheon is an excellent alternative to the boring waits and vast size inseparably connected with Paris' most popular attractions.

Originally an abbey, the Pantheon was violently secularized in 1789 and converted into a monument to the French Revolution. The resulting interior is very gaudy. Large plaster statues commemorating important events in the revolution, and huge marble plaques listing the names of those who died serving Napoleon seem out of place against the background of murals depicting the life and martyrdom of Sainte Theresa. Even the beautifully painted central dome has been tastelessly turned into a gigantic pendulum, effectively obscuring much of the masterpiece.

However, the tactlessly redesigned main level still holds several worthwhile distractions, including a memorial to the famed fighter pilot and children's author Antoine de St. Exupéry (The Little Prince). Those with a passion for medieval history will find the story of Sainte Theresa's life fascinating, as it includes many of France's most important ancient figures, such as Charlemagne and Roland.

However, the Pantheon's primary attraction is underground. The crypt, arrived at from the main level via a modest spiral staircase, has an appropriately somber atmosphere. Subdued lighting and a slightly musty smell serve only to reinforce the weight of the intellects interred only yards away. Here, a quiet reminder to an inconsiderate tourist will earn a debt of gratitude from the many Parisians who regularly visit the site to pay their respects to Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, Voltaire, and many others.

Ironically, the monument so renowned for its subterranean treasures is also an incredible platform for a marvelous view of the entire city. Not itself an intrinsic part of the Paris skyline, the Pantheon is sufficiently taller than the surrounding building to allow visitors an unobstructed view of every major monument in the city. The cupola can be reach by a tour which leaves every half hour. Be warned, this tour is not for the faint of heart. With more than 5,000 steps, and guides who often speak only French, the foreign visitor may find himself worn out and confused.

What truly separates the Pantheon from many of its grander companions is accessibility. Visitors can amble along at their own pace, without feeling rushed, yet the whole building can be thoroughly explored in a single afternoon.

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This article is republished with the authorization of Paris Eiffel Tower News - a great guide for a Paris vacation. Copyright (c) 2004 Paris Eiffel Tower News - All rights reserved.