The Coupe-Chou Restaurant by Rob Swigart
The Coupe-Chou is what might be called a ‘modified’ traditional French restaurant, in that it caters to a largely foreign but not exclusively American clientele. I’ve been going there regularly for over ten years now and have never been disappointed in either the food or the atmosphere. The prices have changed very little in that time.
In English the name means ‘cabbage-cutter,’ a kind of razor. Legend has it that during the thirteenth century a barber nearby used to slit the throats of his clients and hand their bodies over to the butcher across the street to be made into paté (not included on the menu).
The restaurant, founded by three actors in 1963, takes up several rooms in the pointed end of a triangular building at the end of the block-long Rue de Lanneau, a block east of the Sorbonne not far from the Rue des Écoles.
The entrance is framed in lush green vines, a great background for outdoor dining, unless you prefer to be inside which, after February 2007, will be completely smoke-free (as, in theory, will be all the restaurants in France). It’s interesting that over the years I have always requested non-smoking and been told there was no such thing at the Coupe-Chou, yet the last time I was there in the summer of 2006 there was a no-smoking sign on the mantel. In fact there were never many smokers.
What makes this place stand out, besides the food, is the charming seventeenth century interior. The rooms are cozy and comfortable, on several odd levels, many with fireplaces. Floors are stone or tile, the ceilings are low and heavily beamed, bathrooms are in the basement and there is a winter garden.
Cold and hot entrées range from a salad with tomatoes, lardons, croûtons and poached egg (11 €) to foie gras (18 €) and of course include escargots (six for 12 € and quite good, too). Main dishes include standards like Bœuf Bourguignon, Steak Tartare, duck confit, salmon, and rack of lamb, and range from 18 to 23 €. I’ve found the house wines quite good and reasonably priced, but there is an ample cellar for oenophiles. Desserts are delicious, including perennial favorites like Île Flottante. Fixed menus are 22 and 32 €. All prices include service and tax.
You can reserve on line at their informative web site as well (available in English and French):
www.lecoupechou.com.
Restaurant Le Coupe-Chou
9 & 11 rue de Lanneau
75005 Paris
France
01 46 33 68 69
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